It has been almost exactly one month since I returned from my very first trip to Egypt. For many belly dancers, at least the fellow lovers of Egyptian style Raqs Sharki hailing from the United States that I have encountered, traveling to Egypt is a pilgrimage of sorts; not as much a necessary trip as it is a reverent and soul-awakening one. For years I had heard from dancers returning from trips to Egypt how amazing it was, how going there absolutely changed them as a dancer, and how it was a trip that was not to be missed. For years, being stuck in graduate school, saving money for my wedding, or not having enough PTO days limited me from going. "Some day," I would think. Then this year, I decided to finally make it happen and go on the trip of a lifetime; a tour with a group of other bellydancers led by two talented belly dancers who I admire, Valerick Molinary and Shahrzad. It was an absolutely amazing and unforgettable trip. Let me start with the actual journey there.
The Flight
I flew nonstop on Turkish Airlines from Miami to Istanbul. It was about an 11 hour flight and we were served two complimentary meals. I had chosen vegetarian meals ahead of time and they were all pretty good - they seemed to be Indian cuisine. Hot bread rolls were offered with the meals as was complimentary wine. Turkish Airlines also provided everyone in economy class reusable zippered cosmetic bags containing slippers, an eye mask, ear plugs, lip balm, a toothbrush, and toothpaste. We also got a blanket and headphones but no pillow. I was impressed by Turkish's Airlines' onboard service and would definitely fly with them again.
My Istanbul Layover
On the Bosphorous boat as part of Turkish Airlines' Tour Istanbul.
I landed in Istanbul around 6am Istanbul time, which was 11pm in Miami. Since I had a 12 hour layover, I had opted to partake in Turkish Airlines' free Tour Istanbul program. I had to practically leave the airport to get to the meeting point for Tour Istanbul; it was past the baggage claim area. While waiting for the tour to begin, I started feeling the effects of the 7 hour time difference combined with the long plane ride in which I had not slept. The tour started with two tour guides dividing the group of 100 people into two. The group I was in filed into a tour bus. I found myself to be the only native English speaker that I could tell and the only person traveling alone. After the hour-long bus ride from the airport to the city of Istanbul, we arrived at a restaurant for breakfast. The food was already portioned out on plates and laid out for everyone at tables. I picked a chair by the open window and struggled to keep my eyes open as I ate the bread, olives, and cheese that had been set out and drank water from something that reminded me of a pudding cup that you would find in a kid's lunchbox back home (I saw waters like that in Turkey a lot). After everyone had eaten, used the bathroom, and gotten back on the bus, we were taken to go on a Bosphorous cruise. It was October 21st and the breeze felt absolutely frigid out on the water. I sat next to a girl traveling back home to Israel from Bali. The cruise did not take long - we saw both the European and Asian sides of Istanbul and then returned to the port, where we were taken by bus again to another restaurant for lunch. The lunch was surprisingly generous - soup, salad, french fries, rice, and vegetables (for me - meat of choice for everyone else. Yes, I was also the lone vegetarian in the group, ha!). That was the tour! We were loaded back onto the bus and driven the hour back to the airport. I think because of how big the group was, giving time for everyone to eat and use the bathroom took up a long time, so the actual activity of the tour felt pretty short-lived. I was also a sleepless zombie so it was hard to truly enjoy it. That being said, the tour was completely free, including transportation and food. I do not regret seeing the city of Istanbul, even if only for a couple hours. When we returned to the airport, I still had almost 3 hours until my flight to Cairo, so I found the Sleep Pods near terminal D, and paid 16 euros to sleep a blessed two hours in one of the pods. I probably only slept about one hour and change because despite being so exhausted, the adrenaline combined with the noise in the terminal made it hard to fall asleep. Since I slept in there at around 3pm Istanbul time, the pods were totally empty and it was quick and easy to get one. I wish every airport had them, and that affordable too. The flight to Cairo from Istanbul was quick, about 2 hours - and Turkish airlines served a meal again.
Staying in Zamalek
Zamalek kitties - mama and her babies. I wanted to feed and bathe all of the street dogs and cats that I saw in Egypt.
I stayed at The President Hotel in Zamalek, a walkable neighborhood in Cairo where a lot of expats live. I found the hotel to be reasonable - the breakfast buffet with an omelette station was available to us daily until 10am. I found the hotel staff to be very helpful and accommodating. Anything I asked for was promptly provided to me. That being said, many things needed to be asked for (soap, shampoo, hair dryer, etc) because they were not there in the room already. The hotel restaurant seemed to be out of menu items quite a bit, but their mango juice was divine, as it was everywhere I tried it in Egypt - thick and fresh. I enjoyed walking around Zamalek by myself and felt very safe. Throughout my time in Egypt I always made sure to cover my chest, shoulders, stomach, and legs (unless out at night to see a belly dance show). No one bothered me in the street and I found people to be very friendly and helpful. The weather in late October was in the 70's-low 80's during the day and a little cooler at night. I got my nails done in Zamalek as well and was surprised by how long it took - in the U.S. they will immediately start working on your pedicure as soon as you put your feet in the water. In Cairo, I sat with my feet in the water until it turned lukewarm, almost cold, wondering where the workers went and what was going on! The end result was great, but one must go with ample time and patience to get nails done in Cairo. My hair appointment in Zamalek went much quicker though - I was seen right away and the hair stylist worked fast. There were some good restaurants in Zamalek, as well as amazing shopping - local artisan shops, sweet shops, clothing shops, and unique and authentic souvenirs. When I needed an Uber to leave Zamalek, I always got picked up within minutes and the rate for Uber was shockingly low compared to U.S. rates. I also had four separate experiences of trying to find a specific apartment in Cairo and very quickly learned that Egyptians are very quick to offer help. I was amazed at people who went out of their way to help me and would not leave until I had found where I was going.
The Food
Koshary that cost me less than $1 USD.
I loved the food in Egypt. As previously mentioned, the mango juice was always thick and tasted like you were drinking an actual mango. I tried koshary, a filling but inexpensive dish (I ate a bowl of it for less than $1 USD in Zamalek) consisting of lentils, macaroni noodles, garbanzo beans, dried onion, and topped with tomato sauce. I also enjoyed mahshy, which are vegetables (green bell pepper, eggplant, zucchini, or cabbage leaves) stuffed with a spiced rice mixture. The crom (cabbage leaves) were my favorite. Lentil soup in Egypt was always a pureed yellowish color, always served with a lime wedge, cumin, and cayenne spices on the side, and always delicious. I loved the pita sandwiches that you could get for less than $1 USD - my favorite had a tomato eggplant stew inside. I enjoyed foul (sort of like refried beans) and molokhiya, a green soup that you can eat with rice and meat or dip bread in. Feteer was what they called an Egyptian pizza - layers of cheese, meat, and/or veggies inside a sort of flaky, pastry dough. The pistachio baklava and other sweets sold in shops in Cairo were delicious as well.
Belly Dance Shows
I went to four different belly dance shows while in Cairo. The first was at The Fairmont Nile Hotel where I saw Oxana perform. No video or pictures were allowed at the show. My group sat at a long table right next to the stage and ordered food and drinks. Prior to Oxana taking the stage, a 9 person band with a singer performed familiar songs such as Batwanis Beek (I had to control myself from jumping up on the stage to dance!). Oxana also danced to live music, but a completely different band from the previous one.
I also saw Sahar Samara perform at The Blue Nile, a docked boat on the Nile. Two different singers and bands performed that night, and the music was infectious. Everyone in the dimly lit restaurant was rocking, dancing in their seats, and clapping their hands to the music. My experiences seeing Oxana and Sahar Samara perform were the highlights of my trip, simply because of the live music and how much it lit me up inside.
I saw Amaria Selene and Farah Nasri performed on the Nile Pharoahs cruising restaurant. They did not dance to live music, and they also had a tannoura spinner and another trio of dancers perform a couple sets.
Lastly, I saw Hendaya and Aziza perform at a cabaret. That was an interesting experience. At the cabarets in Cairo, you can pay to rent stacks of cash in order to throw the bills at the dancers. A guy who worked at the cabaret would immediately be on his hands and knees sweeping the money up to be taken back to be rented out to the next customer. It was a really bizarre thing. At times the ground would be so covered in money that you could not even see the floor. The dancers there danced to live music with a singer as well. Pictures or filming were not allowed there either.
The Pyramids
In front of the Great Pyramids of Giza.
Walking toward the Red Pyramid, which was the one that we went down inside (entry point is at that house looking structure at the top of the stairs in the middle of the pyramid).
Seeing the pyramids and tombs in Giza was unreal. Seeing the ancient artwork carved into and painted on the walls that was from thousands of years B.C. was mind-boggling. Going inside a pyramid and some of the tombs was also an adventure. The steep, narrow tunnels leading out were built after the mummies had been placed inside, in order to prevent robbers from breaking into the tombs. The passage way leading down into the tombs and the one pyramid we went inside was hot, airless, and mildly claustrophobic. The inside of the pyramid was not anything remarkable in my opinion, but the inside of the tombs were covered on all walls and the ceiling with intricate artwork - carvings, some even with the paint still lasting on it, and hieroglyphs. The people drew pictures of their lives - war, circumcision, dance, animals, music, and more. The stories and information from so long ago were able to be passed on through their pictures. Our guide explained that the people loved their lives so much that they spent much of their lives preparing for the afterlife, believing that they would be able to take everything and everyone they loved into the afterlife with them, and that it would be a continuation of their life on Earth. Some people had even mummified their pets, believing that they could be with them in the afterlife.
The Mummies
Inside the Civilization Museum.
Another highlight for me was seeing the mummies at The Civilization Museum. Looking into the faces of people who had lived 1000-2000 B.C. was hard to wrap my mind around. No photos or videos were allowed so you will have to go to see them for yourself. It really is worth it. Seeing all of the ancient artifacts in the museum was incredible as well. It really left me with the realization that human beings have been living in not such a different way from us (modern-day technology aside) for a very long time.
Luxor
Luxor Temple at sunset.
We flew Egypt Air to Luxor as part of the tour, staying at the Embrace Hotel. The hotel grounds are absolutely gorgeous and the staff were very friendly and accommodating. The shower water was usually freezing and the internet almost never worked, but it was a peaceful oasis to stay in Luxor, serving good food as well. Luxor in general had a much more peaceful vibe than bustling Cairo. Very quiet and tranquil, it is a rural place, built on both sides of the Nile.
Luxor Sightseeing
Inside a tomb at the Valley of the Kings.
Inside Medinat Hebu Temple.
While in Luxor, we went to Luxor Temple, The Valley of the Kings, Medinat Hebu Temple, and Karnak. Luxor Temple, with the Avenue of Sphinxes leading the way to its impressive entryway, was an impressive sight, especially at sunset, when we went. We went into a couple tombs at the Valley of the Kings, and I was amazed by how well preserved they were - much of the paint inside had still been retained and the colors were still stunningly vivid. Medinat Hebu Temple was absolutely stunning. The details in the stunning carvings and paintings once again covering all the walls, ceilings, and floor-to-ceiling pillars was unreal. It had to have taken tons of people to accomplish. First the sketch was made, then the outline, and finally the carving. All of the art was absolutely impeccable and flawless, sophisticated - done by truly talented artists. It was also surreal to see Karnak, a place I had heard about and seen depicted in movies, in person. Like all of the temples in Luxor, Karnak was full of huge pillars and intricate carvings and painted artwork.
Hot Air Balloon in Luxor
Watching a balloon get inflated.
Valley of the Kings in the distance as we are coming in for a landing in our hot air balloon.
One big takeaway I got from my time in Egypt was that things would not always run on time or according to plan. Being flexible is always key. We went on a hot air balloon ride in Luxor, which had been explained to us as a sunrise ride. We gamely woke up at 4:45am for a 5:20 departure from the hotel. After our driver, who was late, eventually picked us up, light was already beginning to streak across the sky. The driver drove us to the Nile River, where he told us "five minutes" and then got out of the van and walked away. Five minutes went by, then ten, then fifteen, as we watched the sun rise over the Nile. We had each paid $100 a person for the hot air balloon and were tired and impatient; disappointed that we were missing the sunrise from the sky. I went to find our driver and asked him in Arabic "when are we going?" Another man explained to me that we were waiting for more tourists to arrive because there were not enough people for the balloon. We were all puzzled, thinking our group of almost a dozen women would fill an entire balloon on our own. Once we were eventually driven to the hot air balloon launch site, we were astonished to find dozens of groups of people in various stages of waiting, embarking, or disembarking from the dozens of enormous balloons scattered across the dusty terrain. We watched the process of our balloon getting blown up and assembled by a group of men who were already drenched in sweat at 7am. The basket for the balloon was divided into sections and each section held about four people. In total there were about 30 people in the balloon. One man controlled the balloon while it was in flight, pulling ropes and levers and releasing hot flames shooting upward. Lifting off the ground felt like nothing - I had to peer over the side of the basket to even realize that we were already levitating. Floating through the sky was absolutely peaceful and gentle. We were able to see the Valley of the Kings from the air, as well as fields of farm animals and some people's homes. We had to squat down into the basket and hang on for the landing, which was only a slight bump as we touched down.
Saidi and Live Music in Luxor
We were fortunate enough to have two authentic dance experiences while in Luxor. The first was a dance lesson at our hotel from Khyriya Mazin, an elderly woman who comes from a dancing and performing family who is one of the earliest known and living connections to the evolution of the dance that we know as raqs sharki (belly dance). The second experience was getting to dine, learn, and be entertained in the home of a local family. We had a saidi lesson with assaya (stick) along with live music from a local Saidi band. I felt a little self-conscious noticing that the women in the family had cooked for us and sat in the corner and watched us dance. I only saw men playing the instruments and dancing. I wondered what they thought of us Western women dancing in front of men.
At Yasmina;s Belly Dsncers' Bnb after our live music party to end the tour.
I feel like there is so much more I could share - my experiences visiting belly dance costume designers (Cristtiano Ferreira and Eman and Hoda Zaki), as well as special moments that Shahrzad and Valerick curated for us on the tour. All I can say is, I highly recommend the Egypt tour with Shahrzad - she runs multiple tours per year and you can find out more information about them on her website. She is an American who has lived in Cairo for several years and she organizes the best experiences - we did SO MUCH - and everything was amazing and so worth it to do. I left Egypt feeling like I had done a lot, yet still wanting more. I felt surprisingly emotional about leaving a country that I had already felt connected to through the music and dance; being there finally in person was such an incredibly special experience for me. Whether you are a belly dancer and lover of Egyptian music as much as I am, or interested in the history of humankind, I highly recommend visiting Egypt.
Comments